Live-streaming in China: luxe dives in, some slip a little

If you’re at all in-tune with Chinese beauty retail, then you most certainly would have heard of the infamous Rouge Hermès Incident involving widely-proclaimed lipstick king Li Jiaqi (李佳琦) giving a scathing review of the much-anticipated lipstick line from the emperor of le French touch (read “gratifyingly expensive”). Though a seriously spicy dish, we’re not going to delve into that hot mess of an incident – when you’re done Googling, please come back because there was a point to bringing that up. 

Back? Ok, so the point is, live-streaming is a big deal in China, and the Covid-19 pandemic has nudged some luxury brands into this mystical, influencer-ruled realm where the laws of physics conventional retail marketing don’t track.

YSL Beauté

First we have lipstick; for many they’re a relatively affordable status symbol; they’re small, fun, and desperate wannabes – including yours truly – pop them like M&Ms; I mean can you even be legally certified as a woman if you don’t possess at least 3 (hundred)?

YSL Beauté carpe diem’ed the ass out of their day with a staged livestream showcase on insanely popular marketplace Taobao Live. A baker’s dozen of influencers, models and presenters spent the hour talking up various box-sets of poppy shades of rouge. In terms of effort, there’s a solid A in there! That set, the cameras, lighting and all those influencers don’t come cheap. Just shy of 2 million viewers tuned in, many followers of the mini-celebrities. Each time an item is sold, a bright orange message pops up onscreen, “XXX0483 is making a purchase!” We saw many-a-message that evening. With prices hovering above 300 RMB per, there’s definitely room for lucrative happiness however we can’t help but ponder the long-term effectiveness and viability of mega influencers-led showcases.

YSL Beauté’s event poster, lipstick box-set, screenshots from Taobao Live

Moving on to fashion shows, Giorgio Armani famously walked onto his runway to greet an invisible crowd in his latest show. Due to the mounting Covid-19 crisis in Italy, no audience could attend the Milan show. Armani is not alone.

Giorgio Armani in Milan on February 23rd


With Dolce & Gabbana’s whirlwind tumble from grace involving a model, a pizza and a pair of chopsticks and Versace’s uninspired fumble with t-shirts printed with store locations (seriously, was that actually meant for paying customers?), Gucci is left ire della collina (king of the hill), so to speak. The brand’s arguably more Darwinian marketing aptitude was put to good use in a recent venture into live-streaming. On February 19th at 10:00pm Beijing time, Gucci broadcasted its runway show live on Weibo, #GucciTheRitual, showcasing the 2020 Fall/Winter collection. At a mere 10 minutes 13 seconds, the micro livestream managed to reach 22.9 million Chinese users (including replay viewers). Not bad François, HEC 4ever. Let’s move on.

Gucci F/W 2020 runway livestream on Weibo


The Chinese-owned (Fosun) Lanvin also dabbled with runway live-streaming. Although Fosun is quite a ways larger than a PE fund, in typical PE-backed fashion, no pun intended, Lanvin went all out, blank check in-hand, broadcasting their show in jaw-dropping live 360° VR format via streaming platform – China’s answer to Netflix. The VR headsets, provided by iQiyi to subscribers of its VR content service, put viewers next to Chinese online A-listers, with the option to hear their voice-over commentary.

Bottom line, we’re not quite sure what to make of it all, indeed there’s so much that’s new and inspiring about this approach, however partnering with a content-driven platform like iQiyi instead of a commercial one like Taobao and delivering through VR goggles may be limiting potential marketing reach, or not, what does McKinsey say?

Lanvin’s livestreamed VR runway via iQiyi

Shanghai Fashion Week

Lastly, while not a brand, worthy of an honorable mention is Shanghai Fashion Week. Official partner Xintiandi teamed up with Tmall (Taobao’s sister marketplace) and basically all of China’s leading content platforms – Bilibili, RED (小红书), TikTok, Kuaishou(快手) – to host a cloud marketplace. Influencers took viewers on walkabout tours through and interviews about home-grown designers. Purchases could be made instantly via Tmall.

Shanghai Fashion Week’s livestream event with many partners

Nothing goes perfectly in uncharted waters. While YSL and Gucci are relishing in the success of their first dips into the livestream, pun intended, other brands seemed to have gone too fast and slipped-up a little.

Louis Vuitton

This year’s Gold Lion for Social Disengagement & Disintegration for Live Experience (FYI, that’s B01 at Cannes, wink) goes to… Louis Vuitton. Sorry, Bernard.

In what can only be described as the execution of a half-formed thought from somebody driven to desperation by quarantine, Louis Vuitton’s ill-fated livestream on RED (小红书), left viewers frozen in disbelief. Instead of a staged approach, the mega-brand opted to broadcast a live-selling session in the classic “直播间” (livestream showroom) format, thus-far a proven business model for middle-aged merchants of surplus apparel stockpiles in the outskirts of Suzhou.

The choice of pieces was a chaotic, vertigo-inducing explosion of everything monogramed from canvas bags, to shorts to sneakers and scarves; when we looked at the backs of our hand we could still see Jesus the LV sign. As if that wasn’t enough kitsch for one lifetime, the styling of the poor girls drew up repressed memories of Honey Boo Boo. Cap it off with a no-frills set that somehow made its way over from 1960’s Deauville, and finally the writing on the wall became clear, “catastrophic consumer backlash up ahead”. Screenshots below, we’ll let you be the judge.

Louis Vuitton’s RED livestream (left), China’s typical live-selling bargain darlings (right)


And then there was one. Sometimes equipment just fails us. Janet had the wardrobe malfunction, Enrique had a disastrous relationship with a live mic and Burberry had, well nothing really, no, literally nothing. The April 9th Taobao Live showcase was supposed to air at 9:00pm sharp with influencers billing in the six-figures expected to join, including Yvonne Ching. One hour and a couple dozen messages to customer service later, we gave up and went to bed (writing articles requires a lot of sleep). Apparently due to “technical issues”, the live broadcast would be delayed to a later date. 11 days on and we’re still waiting.

Burberry Live poster and the technical fumble

There’s far too many more case studies than one god-fearing (Thor) writer should dare to tackle in a single piece. Honorable mentions also go out to Ahava x Tmall live from the Dead Sea, MCM’s in-store broadcasts on RED (小红书), Calvin Klein’s 360° VR pop-up cloud store and Prada x TikTok’s #“P”oems.

Ahava, CK and Prada (top left to bottom right)

While there are many platforms who have facilitated brands’ explorative endeavors into the world of live-streaming, Alibaba-backed Taobao/Tmall clearly emerged as the de-facto platform of choice. Astonishingly, the Tencent-backed was nowhere to be found. 

We can guesstimate 3 reasons: 

1. Taobal/Tmall often acted as co-hosts or sponsors to these live-streaming events.

2. Taobao/Tmall is a huge, merchant-driven marketplace, especially popular among small, independent retailers/manufacturers of apparel, accessories & beauty, thereby drawing in huge impuse buyers. Contrast that with, who is recognized as a more structured marketplace for branded products and established (read “licensed“) merchants, an Amazon of sorts, with a tendency to skew towards consumer electronics and groceries.

3. While some of the other broadcasting platforms, notably RED (小红书), do offer a marketplace feature whereby viewers can directly proceed to purchase, Taobal/Tmall’s payment escrow system, buyer protection and merchant vetting features are a big draw.

Post-Covid 19 and with increasing 5G coverage, will we see brands continue to gravitate towards live-streaming as a sustainable new marketing avenue? Only time will tell.



五月的一天晚上,空气沉闷的令人窒息,70多个粉丝齐聚在重新改造的同志夜店里,大喊着,“You SUCK, you SUCK!” MKW(摔角王国)世界冠军Dalton Bragg在摔角场内徘徊着,透过他那黑眼圈,注视着那些用英语朝着他谩骂的中国人。他的胸前溅满了鲜血,气还没等喘匀,在几步之外,他就被大块头Big Sam拖起空中,摔倒在地。

“摔角是现代的莎士比亚”,Nikk Mitchell大吼着,他的声音穿过人群的叫喊声,穿过零零星星碰撞的身体。MKW为今晚的比赛选了四位摔角手。Nikk 是MKW的合伙管理人,他刚刚和裁判吵了一架,然后坐回到位子上。“现在的剧院都太骄傲自大了”,他大声喊道,“以前,这只不过是缺乏教养的地方而已。人们会朝着演员扔水果。世界上现在没有太多艺术形式像摔角比赛这样,观众的参与非常重要。就因为这,摔角才显得特殊。”

mk2-2073mk2-2086Dalton Bragg将Sam拷在台柱上,全面压制了自拍王的进攻,在一场三重威胁赛中保住了自己的MKW世界冠军。图片来自:Eric Garrison



相比之下,中国则是一个沉睡的巨人,直到2004年摔角才露出端倪,当时,广东摔角手,人称“The Slam”,前往韩国磨练技能。回到东莞后,他搭建了移动性的职业摔角场地,训练了一批中国人才,之后这些人便成了中国摔角娱乐的一部分。这样的流动性舞台成为了CWE(中国摔角娱乐联盟)半常规赛现场表演的场地,也是在线电视节目的拍摄场地。

mk2-2050自拍王对Big Sam使出了攻击波。图片来自:Eric Garrison

接下来具有里程碑式时间是2013年10月,CNWWE(世界摔角娱乐联盟中国)邀请The Slam和国内外顶级摔角手齐聚重庆,计划上演四场现场比赛,并且向他们许诺,比赛投资很大,前景一片大好。而这一切的幕后推手名叫Paul Wang,他不仅是一名超级摔角迷,而且还在美国生活过,梦想着建立中国的摔角联赛,与美国的WWE相媲美。但是Paul Wang最终把事情搞砸了(后续的推广也落空了),联赛还未开始就已化为泡影,摔角手不得不自己掏钱买机票返程回家。

在经历了多次错误的开始和零零散散的比赛后,在过去的一年半里,我们终于看到了情况的好转。2015年初,The Slam接到一通电话,在华美国人Adrian Gomez想要开展中国职业摔角推广活动,希望和他探讨合作。之前几个月,Gomez一直在联络中国的摔角群体,已经有一些摔角手愿意参与进来,所以MKW已打好基础。2015年7月,MKW首秀在东莞上演, 2015年冬,又有来自美国、英国、香港、新加坡等地的摔角手齐聚一堂,一场更大型的比赛拉开了帷幕。

与此同时,中国最大摔角网站“摔角网”(的创始人费五星也在筹划着建立中摔联盟。中摔联盟的海报宣传由高原出演,他和The Slam已分道扬镳,经历过重庆摔角赛事情之后,这位前摔角手现在和费五星团队展开了合作。近期上海的摔角比赛请来了MKW和CWE的摔角手,CWF也借此机会上演了首秀。

  mk2-3017mk2-3019 mk2-3022 mk2-3046上海CWF宣传活动中,日本摔跤手绘美樱与理绘的摔角比赛。图片来自:Eric Garrison



也正是WWE对中国的淡漠态度,使得国内的人有了觊觎的机会,打造了很有吸引力的线上线下内容。中国的观众都习惯了在线上看专业摔角比赛,如何吸引他们来看现场的肉搏成了最大的挑战。“(中国粉丝)知道会有现场比赛,但是还没真的参与进来”,MKW的Dalton Bragg如是说。

1524820748Big Sam与Royal Stu。Stu是wrestlezon.com的Royal Ramble专栏作家,同时也是Sam在上海CWF的经纪人。图片来自:Big Sam


Gomez并不担心会有竞争 – 毕竟,很多摔角手都同时参加很多节目 – 但是,他强调MKW所采用的这种以角色为主导的方法,正是他们的与众不同之处,“(CWF)真的非常喜欢日本风格……更像是一种传统的体育运动。但(我们)更注重讲故事。”

1572963715@chatroom_1463374904719_10MKW的自拍王与Nikk Mitchell(任事股东)俯视位于上海体育馆一家夜店的比赛场地。图片来自:Nikk Mitchell


国内摔角比赛要想吸引中国观众的眼球,就必须得有超级明星。为了找到“摔角界的姚明”,日本IGF联盟于2013年在上海开展了柔道比赛,宣称,他们已经找到了未来的偶像王彬 – 一位来自安徽的20岁的体育教练。然而,中国的致命缺陷在于稀缺性:缺少摔角手(全国范围内可能只有20个),缺乏专业的训练设施,也缺少世界级的教练。正因如此,王彬被送到日本去训练,一如10年前The Slam前往韩国一样。Bragg解释说,“如果摔角手一周训练三次,一个月比赛一次,要比一年不参加何训练,一年就出场两次,要好上100倍。训练和比赛会拓展技能。参加比赛的话,摔角手就会真正去经历,而不是单纯的打三个动作而已。”


1572963715@chatroom_1463374633312_40左起:自拍王,Royal Stu,绘美樱,Dalton Bragg,理绘,Nikk Mitchell。图片来自:Nikk Mitchell


现在这些节目制作人还有很漫长且艰巨的路要走。他们与前人之间真正的差别在于,似乎他们对这种艺术形式充满了真正的热情。“比赛越多,我就会越来越爱上摔角,”MKW的Nikk Mitchell说道,“既然现在要努力打造出最好的摔角节目,我就要找到核心要素,让摔角成为广受大众欢迎又令人兴奋的节目。”


(English) Family Polaroid GIFspiration


皮艾吉试映会:在Grumpy Pig观看虎胆龙威

12月10日,P.I.G将与他的伙伴们在The Grumpy Pig开展它的系列放映会,有什么会比好莱坞经典电影“虎胆雄威”(1988)更加好的呢?我们将在放映电影的同时奉上虎胆雄威餐-赶快预订,不容错过!


The Grumpy Pig x P.I.G. 中国
“电影 & 食物”: 圣诞专辑
周二, 12月10日, 2013, 8pm @ The Grumpy Pig, Shanghai
位置有限. 预订: 6217-3355







( Sandra Bullock在‘地心引力’中的剧照)


地心引力的巨大影响: 地心引力在中国 打破了IMAX的票房记录, 遥遥领先 其他在线影片; 其导演Alfonso Cuaron 希望中国能够真正的带他上太空(新华社报道):
我知道我将再也不会拍另一部太空材的影,因它太耗时间了。但是我很愿意被邀去太空。” Cuaron 在北京宣此片的候告者,我会不断的求。或中国政府会把我送上太空。我会非常高将是无比的荣誉

中国的微代精神: BBC写到微电影是如何不被中国媒体和谐的; 甚至中国航空也在飞机上播放微电影.

电影节: 中国(广州)国际纪录片节 开幕; 同时开幕的还有被围攻的 在南京的中国独立影像展; the ASEAN 电影节在新加坡开幕; 在12月中澳门的 亚太影展; 北京最近举办的 中国民间女性影展; 上海电影短片比赛”由‘没问题’举办” ; 以及一个 有趣的英国学术调研组织 探索中国的电影节.

其他: 小时代3的海报照片和报道 (据说将在罗马制作).

超酷派对:著名设计师Francis Lam的采访片段 (别名db-db)

上周看到这个‘超酷派对’的首发,一个由Francis Lam 设计的iOS app, 这个软件很快在上海的创意界里掀起了一股潮流。它是一个时尚有趣的像素游戏,然后夹杂着db-db的商标设计Tofu Go和Nudemen – 一个有趣的8位游戏,轻盈的音乐以及简单的游戏界面(在这里是需要扒光主角的衣服,为他们找对象)。在将来,这个游戏可能会有时尚品牌冠名并发展更多的内容。为了让POV能有更多的创意内容,Francis同意让我们采访他.


问: 简而言之,你是如何形容‘超酷派对’的 ?购物与时尚的联系又在哪里呢?
答: 这是一个以时尚为主题的8位游戏附带了社交数码照相功能。但我主要想要去尝试是为广告和手机游戏创建一个新的平台。游戏内的广告永远是玩游戏的人最讨厌的东西,我想要去创造一个能够试开发商与玩的人都获益的东西。

问: 什么给了你灵感来制作这个游戏?尤其对于这样一个视觉形象,音乐以及沙滩派对的感念。
答: 好玩,有趣以及8位游戏永远是我作品的主流。同样这个游戏也和我们Nudemen系列有联系。

问: 这是你自Tofu Go后的第一个软件开发 – 你在那个软件后学到了什么,以及哪些新的设计技巧,编程,市场规划以及发行渠道你在此次超酷派对上会体现?
答: 我认为我的其他的移动软件以及游戏都是我的一些工作的试验和衍生品。大多数作品在一周内就完成了。超酷派对却是有详细规划过并精心制作的一个项目,它主要表达的是一个不同的数码社交通道。然后它也是第一个由我的新公司db+db发行的产品。

问: 当你离开了W+K自己创业的时候,你提到了你在追求一个非常有趣的尝试,当中会涉及到各种的新的关于快速重复制作的项目,你可以描述一下这些你在开发的新项目的架构吗?
答: 当然。db+DB是一个很小的团队,目标是制作小型的快速重复数码产品。我们对我们的产品有3个要求:1.产品必须在2-3个月内发行。2. 产品必须是在商业用途上可行的。3. 产品需要有潜力改变世界或者使我们生活更美好。

问: 你觉得将来的移动广告会变成怎养,并且为什么你觉得游戏在这个空间里很重要?很多人谈到了在品牌投放上微信将代替微博-你是如何觉得超酷派对将引领一个新潮流?
答: 我觉得数码游戏社团还是一个很大的市场去投放广告。超酷派对将作为一个试验型项目来回答所有的问题。

问: 现在什么最能激发你的灵感?
答: 眼下,绝对是我刚出生的女儿

下载超酷派对 这里 !

“恐惧”杂志 , 王颖琦的GIF作品

Inkee Wang 王颖琦现就读于伦敦的皇家艺术学院, 并以她的优异的作品吸引着众多同行的眼球,并且以她可爱的歪性扭转插图引起了多方的注意。现在这些转来转去的插图从屏幕和页面上跳了下来,一个新的项目. “恐惧”, 以一系列的GIF图片的形式,发表在 Tumblr 一个特殊的版本上,还有一本限量发行的杂志上。这个试验性的视觉论文探讨了恐惧,这个整个人类所共同具有的情感,并 深入历史探讨了过去与现在有趣的平行。









(English) Meet Mr. Cao, Skateboarding Hutong Bathroom Attendant


很新鲜也很干净: 中国漂亮的经典肥皂包装

让你的眼睛来顿中国经典肥皂包装的视觉盛宴吧 - 由复古爱好者提供 U-Book 在豆瓣上. U-Book 也有一些非常赞的照片 mid-century Chinese clothing catalogues 以及一个非常可爱的vintage Seagull camera.

就像有些人说的 on Weibo, 它们看上去就想咬一口

看整套 这里.

(转自我们很受欢迎的艺术家 Yan Cong)



广受好评的新电影’中国重量级’,推荐Sun Shaoguang 拍的那些美丽的电影摄影作品!


[Photo: Sun Shaoguang, from China Heavyweight, dir. Yung Chang (2012)]

Yung Chang’s China Heavyweight 中国的拳击不仅仅是魔鬼般的训练和血淋淋的脸庞

By Sarah Keenlyside

Near the start of Yung Chang’s new film China Heavyweight, we are…